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  • 在Radxa Zero 3上运行deepseek

    在Zero上编译非常痛苦,所以使用交叉编译:

    安装步骤
    更新包列表:

    sudo apt update
    安装交叉编译工具链:

    sudo apt install gcc-aarch64-linux-gnu g++-aarch64-linux-gnu
    //gcc-aarch64-linux-gnu:ARM64架构的C编译器。

    //g++-aarch64-linux-gnu:ARM64架构的C++编译器。

    验证安装:

    aarch64-linux-gnu-gcc –version
    aarch64-linux-gnu-g++ –version

    1. 设置交叉编译环境
      在项目目录中创建一个 toolchain.cmake 文件,用于指定交叉编译工具链。

    创建 toolchain.cmake 文件
    cmake

    toolchain.cmake

    set(CMAKE_SYSTEM_NAME Linux)
    set(CMAKE_SYSTEM_PROCESSOR aarch64)

    set(CMAKE_C_COMPILER /usr/bin/aarch64-linux-gnu-gcc)
    set(CMAKE_CXX_COMPILER /usr/bin/aarch64-linux-gnu-g++)

    set(CMAKE_FIND_ROOT_PATH /usr/aarch64-linux-gnu)
    set(CMAKE_FIND_ROOT_PATH_MODE_PROGRAM NEVER)
    set(CMAKE_FIND_ROOT_PATH_MODE_LIBRARY ONLY)
    set(CMAKE_FIND_ROOT_PATH_MODE_INCLUDE ONLY)

    1. 交叉编译项目
      使用交叉编译工具链编译项目。

    步骤 1:生成构建文件

    cmake -B build -DCMAKE_TOOLCHAIN_FILE=toolchain.cmake
    步骤 2:编译项目

    cmake –build build –config Release -j 2
    步骤 3:验证编译结果
    检查生成的可执行文件是否为ARM64架构:

    file build/my_program
    输出示例:

    build/my_program: ELF 64-bit LSB executable, ARM aarch64, version 1 (SYSV), dynamically linked, interpreter /lib/ld-linux-aarch64.so.1, for GNU/Linux 3.7.0, not stripped

    1. 将程序复制到RK3566
      使用 scp 或U盘将编译好的程序复制到RK3566上运行。

    使用 scp 复制

    scp build/my_program user@rk3566_ip:/path/to/destination
    在RK3566上运行

    ./llama-server -m DeepSeek-R1-Distill-Qwen-1.5B-Q4_K_M.gguf –host 0.0.0.0

    使用精简蒸馏模型DeepSeek-R1-Distill-Qwen-1.5B-Q4_K_M.gguf

    结果还是非常意料之内的,缓慢无比。0.2 t/s

  • Radxa 3w zero connect wifi before login

    So here is the thing:
    I want to use one of my radxa 3w zero to be a light server, but for some reason their CLI version can not start up, which is insane. And I tried, it just stuck at the beginning.

    So I uninstalled the xfce of debian-xfce version. And everything I need were working properly.
    Except the Wi-Fi. It only connects when I login.

    I have tried several methods. And finally.

    At /etc/NetworkManager/system-connections/mywifi.nmconnection

    Then disable the line “permissions” and it works.

  • Protected: My gears

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  • About DJI goggles 2

    There are a lot of reviews and opinions regard this product. But I think it is not enough.
    I found something really annoying about this thing when I once had one. And no one talked about it.

    Back in the day, SAMSUNG was a relatively popular brand in China(I barely see them now). And they produced the product AMOLED panel since then. This thing was used on their phones for a long period, and many people had told me how good it was, but as you may know, the real decent generation of their AMOLED screen was just came out several years ago, when Apple decided to use it. I then found they finally could be accepted by myself — their pentile OLED is finally being small enough and not that easier to be noticed. So I bought my very first Samsung phone – S23.

    So what I’m trying to express is that DJI goggles 2(including integra), has exactly the PenTile pixel screen panel in it(Turns out its not exactly the same but likely). It looks just sucks to me. These pixels just keep stabbing my eyes.

    Sorry DJI. I mean it. But it is what it is. I don’t want to talk about the dead pixels. It all about PenTile pixels. Yes, I can also notice some flick of black out of the screens, but I think all the 1080p oled screens have that issue.

    You can read more about PenTile OLED here : https://www.oled-info.com/pentile

    I can’t use it anymore. Maybe the next generation.

    P.S.: Turns out it is something like hexagon pixels.

    ≈==================≈=Better version From Copilot ===

    Here’s a more natural version of your content:


    There are many reviews and opinions about this product, but I think they don’t cover everything.

    I found something really annoying about this device when I owned one, and no one else seems to mention it.

    A few years ago, SAMSUNG was quite popular in China (I barely see them now). They produced AMOLED panels for their phones for a long time. Many people told me how good the screens were, but as you may know, a truly decent generation of their AMOLED screens only came out a few years ago when Apple decided to use them. That’s when I found them acceptable — their PenTile OLED finally became small enough that the pixels weren’t as noticeable. So, I bought my very first Samsung phone, the S23.

    What I’m trying to say is that the DJI goggles 2 (including Integra) have a PenTile pixel screen panel (not exactly the same, but similar). To me, it looks terrible. These pixels just keep straining my eyes.

    Sorry, DJI. I mean it. But it is what it is. I don’t want to talk about the dead pixels. It’s all about the PenTile pixels. Yes, I can also notice some flickering black spots on the screen, but I think all 1080p OLED screens have that issue.

    You can read more about PenTile OLED here: https://www.oled-info.com/pentile

    I can’t use it anymore. Maybe the next generation will be better.

    P.S.: It turns out the pixels are arranged in a hexagon pattern.


    I hope this version sounds more natural to you. If you need any more help, feel free to ask!

    ========From Deepseek ========

    Here’s a more natural and polished version of your text:


    There are plenty of reviews and opinions about this product, but I don’t think they tell the full story. When I owned one myself, I encountered a major annoyance that no one seems to mention.

    Let me give some context. There was a time when Samsung was fairly popular in China (though you barely see them here now). They’ve been producing AMOLED panels for years, which were used in their phones for a long time. Everyone kept praising how great these screens were, but honestly, Samsung’s AMOLED didn’t truly hit its stride until a few years ago—around the time Apple started using them. That’s when I finally felt the screens were good enough for me: their PenTile OLED layout finally became fine enough that the pixel structure wasn’t glaringly obvious. That’s actually why I bought my first Samsung phone, the S23.

    So here’s my point: the DJI Goggles 2 (including the Integra version) use what appears to be a PenTile-style pixel arrangement (not exactly the same, but similar). And to me, it looks awful. The pixel structure feels like it’s constantly straining my eyes.

    No offense to DJI—I respect their work—but this is a real issue. And I’m not even talking about dead pixels here; this is purely about the PenTile layout. Sure, I’ve also noticed some screen flickering and blackout flashes, but I’ll concede that’s a common problem with 1080p OLED screens in general.

    For more details on PenTile OLED, check out this explainer: https://www.oled-info.com/pentile

    Unfortunately, I just can’t use these goggles anymore. Maybe next generation?


    Changes made for clarity and flow:

    1. Softened abrupt transitions between ideas.
    2. Added conversational phrases (“Let me give some context,” “honestly,” “No offense”) for natural tone.
    3. Fixed minor grammar issues (e.g., “just came out” → “hit its stride”).
    4. Clarified the connection between Samsung’s AMOLED evolution and the DJI critique.
    5. Added emphasis (truly) to highlight key points organically.
    6. Simplified repetitive phrasing while maintaining your voice.
  • Feihualianpian

    那盏灯终于还是灭了。起初以为只是舱门的开关没有弹性了,但马上发现不是那样。没有一丝伤感,就算晚上起夜看不到它那温馨的光了。
    当一件习以为常的事突然发生改变,或喜或忧。不对,也或平淡。

    已经忘了是什么时候从华龙商厦把这个印有家电下乡标志的微波炉买回家了,我还在这个标志上贴了一张华硕主板的商标贴,对,就是每块新主板里都会带的那种。

    记得以前家里的微波炉就是两个旋钮开关,简单明了。而这个货,面板上布满了让人琢磨不清的按钮,看了说明书,有些时候还要“编程”使用,总之非常麻烦。好在简单的微波功能只需要按下时间就能启动。之所以看上它就是觉得容易擦拭,因为它的按键是一个整体的平面。
    而现实总是那么的现实,不仅面板按钮依然鲜有人擦,仓内也还总是溅满了食物的残渣。

    由于舱门从来不会被人随手关上,所以那盏灯就总是亮着。无论是光线充足的白天,还是灰黑的夜晚,只要没有停电,它就那么亮着—— How dare you

  • 图传系统总结

    405491113_1077249653292422_6365736064413115025_n.jpg

    嗨JB,你对蜗牛数字图传系统大体怎么看?你觉得它在性能和质量方面都比DJI强吗?我在用V1眼镜并正在找一个相对紧凑的。我应该直接上G2而不是蜗牛吗?
    或者再等等,DJI在2024年发布的新眼镜?我不着急。我经常旅行所以我想减少点重量且方便携带。爱听你的想法。

    JB:

    我不觉得蜗牛比DJI好(总体上)。我个人的看法是,蜗牛和DJI v2/vista 系统在同一水平上或者还差一丁点儿。和O3则差一个档次~

    但是蜗牛有其它的很多优点比如 1S 图传,HDMI输出等。然后图传距离和穿透性也已经足够好即便可能不如DJI。所以它对很多人来说仍是个不错的选择,可以考虑。

    以上是最近看见的一个对话,可以说JB的回答很实际了。
    就像之前我发的一些看法一样。我做了一个表格:

    屏幕截图 2023-12-05 161310.png

    关于延迟,对于我个人的经验来说,基于网络多人测试的共同结果,肥鲨HDO2模拟眼镜大约有15毫秒的延迟,盒子眼镜大概有25ms以上的延迟,摄像头有3-25毫秒左右的延迟,我使用的CCD典型延迟是16毫秒。所以我之前练习的图传总延迟是在30-40毫秒区间,这个范围我感受不到延迟。当使用某盒子眼镜和延迟较大的摄像头平头哥时我能明显感觉到延迟的增加,但流畅度不受影响。更多的设备延迟测试可以搜索网络,几个著名的UP主都有。而较快的竞速摄像头一般延迟在2-3毫秒,加上眼镜15毫秒,总延迟在20毫秒以内。HDZERO的总延迟在15毫秒左右,这也是为什么HDZERO可以成为竞速系统。

    MIT一小组发现大脑最快13毫秒感知画面

  • The notice of Hdzero on ardupilot

    Categories:FPV August 28, 2023

    When we first setup our Hdzero vtxs with Ardupilot firmware we tend to google it first, at least that’s what I have been. And there are articles that suggest to set “MSP” option to “4”. But as times gone by we no longer need to do so. Just simply leave it there the default “0” and set the corresponding serial port to “42”, don’t mess up with braud rates and leave the default “115” and it is good to go.
    Also need to know you need the newer versions of Hdzero firmware. It contains the essential fonts that ardupilot OSD use to display.

  • 肥鲨高清眼镜用后感

    Categories:FPV August 27, 2023

    补充一个肥鲨高清眼镜的体验。它和蜗牛版本应该是相同的。
    首先拿在手里会感觉非常精致小巧对比HDZERO来说,肥鲨的做工还是可以的,看起来外形也很像一个鲨鱼头。只可惜有两个我看来比较严重的缺点:1.和早期的模拟肥鲨眼镜一样,面罩很窄,不能适合所有人的脸庞,只能通过更换海绵垫来解决,但效果不会特别好,因为距离也变了。2.机身前后距离太长,导致重心靠外,等你装上天线会有更严重的下坠,其实我认为蜗牛可以和DJI合作,用他们的一体版就很完美,我想多了~

    我最期待的就是之前在HDZERO眼镜加VRX无法实现的1080P模式,等实际使用时才发现结果大失所望。也有比较明显的掉帧,眼睛感到强烈不适。。抱歉,我的是这样。
    然后就是相比VRX的HDMI带来的延迟,它的延迟会更小一点。可能正是这个延迟让其更流畅,无论我尝试何种码率搭配,720P也会有比VRX更多的卡顿。。

    再见。蜗牛眼镜。

    我仍然相信这是个有潜力的系统,请优化一下眼镜,外形和延迟处理。哪怕是增加一点延迟~ 延迟的高低不是问题,问题在于卡顿。

    先这样。

  • FPV

    Categories:FPV May 31, 2023

    随着数字图传的性能越来越好,FPV的入门也变得更加容易起来。早期模拟的时代,设备性能都有限,一般眼镜的分辨率也低得可怜,还有各种“盒子眼镜”。即便是后期RF出现,很多人也未必能真的适应模拟的画质,从而过早放弃。糟糕的画面很大程度上影响空间的判断,穿越障碍物也非常困难。除了大量练习磨合装备外,我觉得在设备的选择上也是有一点点的技巧的,比如CMOS摄像头虽然像素更清晰一些,但是相比过时的CCD会更多地被光干扰(同Mr Steele)。而模拟本来就不见得是一定要看清楚才能飞~想象一下蝙蝠是怎么在黑夜里飞行的~

    每个人都喜欢尝鲜,但变来变去,轴距也就那几个尺寸,电机也一样。如果想早日玩好一种机型,就要适当专一,如非必要不变更任何装备和配件。即便是练习的机器,也尽可能使用同一架,第二架可作为备用机,在主机没办法飞时不至于提前回家。

    尽可能地使用高性能的产品。而高性能也不总是高价格,比如ELRS遥控系统,即好用又便宜。高刷对飞行起到很大作用,setpoint的高刷新率和稳定的无线链路,如果你是BF飞控建议完全关闭它的自动插值。这里我还是保守地使用成熟的opentx搭配“众矢之的”Frsky遥控器:D减少不必要的jitter等等。说到精度,RATE值肯定不是高了就“牛逼”,有得有失,高RATE低精度,低RATE高精度,自己在每个方面都要做到取舍,选择自己最需要的那个。每一方面都提高一点加起来就很多,你的飞机也会更好飞。这让人想起来整机减重,每个配件都尽可能选用最轻的,整机就会很轻。

    要玩好就要完全投入,远离哗众取宠,告别设备测试员。做到这几点,相信会很有帮助。通往罗马的路有很多,或许你有更好的见解~

  • Ardupilot Copter 4.1.5 firmware for BetaflightF4 controller

    Visit here for the latest: https://github.com/hulandy/hulandy.github.io/releases

    =============

    Updated on 2022.08.13

    Today I’ve compiled another 4.1.5 copter firmware for this board. It contains 6 PWM output, PA0 pin (CAM or TM pin depends on varieties) is for the PWM5, LED pin is the PWM6, thus adding a super low cost sonar on it to incorporate with optic flow is possible now. The other functionality maintains the same. If you attach a MS5611 module on it, then you don’t need to do anything in order to make it working. In theory, you can use a different barometer like BMP280 then you set it as an external module (In this case, set BARO_PROBE_EXT to 2, after reboot you’ll be able to check the “press_abs” and “press_temp” in Status).

    My setup : MS5611 module, GL9306 optic flow, GY-US42v2 Sonar works in PWM mode, 5883L compass. It works great~ Test flight footage and the firmware below :
    Testflight

    Firmware

    =====================================================================================
    I just compiled two firmware for the old target betaflightf4 controller (Initially created by BorisB and FpvModel), I believe that iFlight SucceX-E and LDARC-KKT30D are both using the same target. There has no Baro on the board.

    One of the firmware is for external Baro -BMP280 bff428_with_bl.zip and another is for MS56XX bff456_with_bl.zip.

    There is also a slightly different between these two firmware, that is MS56XX one has PA0 pin (TM or Cam control) for PWM 5 but hopefully it will work.

    Common function: The default USART3 is I2C, you can set BRD_ALT_CONFIG=1 to use it as a normal USART (most unlikely, somehow if you don’t attach a baro on it, “speed” goes crazy, I’m an AP noob, tell me if you know what is going on in this case). By default, B08 is the RCin, on LDARC KK30D is PPM pin.

    I haven’t flight it yet, but it supposed to be fine. Just for test purposes only.

    Use iNav configurator to flash it, newer Betaflight configurator doesn’t work.
    Since STM32 use rom for bootloader so you won’t brick it.